Whole Wheat Tonnarelli with Peas & Lemon

Classic Spring flavors that take inspiration from practically everywhere.

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I’m not a professional recipe developer per se, but more someone that likes to cook and share recipes with friends. I am always impressed by chefs who create something totally unique, but I tend to pull inspiration from everywhere to create something that feels interesting and unique to me.

Lately, I’ve been craving and cooking a lot of pasta dishes that lean more creamy and cheesy. It started with Carla Lalli Music’s Pasta alla Gricia, a classic Roman dish where the sauce forms when the starchy pasta water is slowly emulsified with the cheese to make a not-too-heavy-but-still-rich sauce. Fan favorite Cacio e Pepe relies on a similar technique.

I’ve tried to make these pasta dishes before, but the sauce would always clump and become a globby mess. But when Carla’s recipe came out, I made it over and over and over so that I’d finally practiced my way to success. Sometimes I’d throw in fava beans or artichokes, but the sauce was always perfect.

High on my success, I revisited

Alison Roman

‘s Lemon Pepper Pasta with Browned Butter which I’d say is more akin to a citrus Cacio e Pepe, but relies on the same technique. While eating another round of a perfectly executed sauce, I thought, am I good at this?

Recently, I visited King Restaurant with a friend and we had a lemony-pea-prosctuitto pasta that felt a bit like an amalgamation of all these dishes I’d been cooking at home. It was bright from the lemon, salty from the cheese and prosciutto, and the peas provided a nice verdant crunch. I was already thinking about when I could go back, but within days, it came off their menu to make room for something else.

So finally, when I was flipping through back issues of Gourmet Magazine and came across a pasta recipe with green beans, pepper, and parmesan (and also potatoes and poppy seeds??), I found a launchpad to bring all of these inspirations together.

I borrowed the whole wheat pasta from the Gourmet recipe, peas replaced the green beans, lemon felt like the right acidic punch, and a crispy slice of prosciutto became the salty finish. It’s ultimately a nod to classic Spring flavors, but taking inspiration from cooking and eating along the way.

It’s Cacio e Pepe meets lemon, alla Gricia meets spring peas. This recipe reminded me that you never know when inspiration will strike.

Whole Wheat Tonnarelli with Peas & Lemon

Inspired by Gourmet Magazine 1987, King Restaurant in NYC, Alison Roman, and Carla Lalli Music

Drink with: An acidic white like a Picpoul

Serves 2-3

1/2 lb whole wheat thin pasta (spaghetti, bucatini, tonnarelli). If you can’t get whole wheat or can’t get fresh, get your favorite long, skinny noodle. Raffetto’s sells the fresh whole wheat pasta I used here.

2 tablespoons butter

Olive oil

Fresh cracked pepper

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus more to serve

1/2 cup shelled peas

Zest and juice of 1 large lemon

Prosciutto, 1 slice per person

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Lay the prosciutto on a sheet tray and broil until crispy, 2-3 minutes each side.

When the water boils, drop the pasta in the water and cook it until almost al dente, about 2 minutes less than the package says (probably 8-9 minutes). If using fresh, cook for about 2 minutes.

As the pasta cooks, brown the butter and a swirl of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat until the butter starts to brown a touch, about 1 minute. Add in several cranks of pepper (I did about 4 per person) and the lemon zest and toast, stirring continuously, for about another minute. If you’re done with this step before the pasta is done, turn off the heat and set aside.

When the pasta is done, return the skillet to medium heat and using tongs or a slotted spoon, add the pasta directly to the medium skillet with a splash of pasta water, and stir vigorously for about 1 minute as the mixture starts to emulsify. Add the peas, 1/2 the Parmesan and about 1/3 cup of water and continue to stir for about another minute. Add the remaining parmesan, 1/3 cup water, and 1/2 the lemon juice and stir for another minute. Add about 1/4 cup more water and cook for a final minute.

You’re looking for a smooth, emulsified consistency. If the mixture is still a bit tacky, add pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and stir to achieve a smooth consistency.

Remove from heat. Add the remaining lemon juice and stir in for about 30 seconds. Divide among plates, top with a shower of Parmesan, and with one sheet of prosciutto. Serve immediately.