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It’s the time of year in New York where in one week it goes from 50 and rainy to 85 with sun and back again. But within these volatile weather mood swings that we call spring, the season’s best produce begins to show up. And if you live in the northeast, that means ramps.
When ramps show up, people tend to lose their collective minds (though not this lady, she hates joy), and for a few fleeting weeks, they’re on restaurant and home cooking menus in all kinds of ways.
I like them because they’re delicious. But also because they push me back into the kitchen — they’re the nudge I need to get out of my end-of-winter cooking slump.
This recipe is adapted from the New York Times, but I’ve tweaked it enough times that it’s taken on a life of it’s own. Ramps are probably only available for another week or so, but this recipe would probably be just as good with scallions and/or leeks.
The only requirement of this recipe is to scream, “IT’S RAMP SEASON” to yourself as you eat it.
Roasted Chicken with Ramps and Asparagus
Serves 4
1 4½-pound whole chicken, spine cut out and pressed flat (spatchcocked)
2 lemons, quartered and seeds removed
6 garlic cloves, smashed
2 tablespoons capers
2 bunches fresh ramps (or scallions and/or leeks if you can’t find ramps)
1 bunch asparagus
Salt, pepper
Olive oil
Loaf of crusty bread, to serve
Place a large cast-iron or other heavy skillet in the oven and heat to 500 degrees for 45 minutes. It might get a little smokey so open a window while you do this. I used a 12 in skillet, but if you have something larger, that might be a bit easier to work with.
Season the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Let it rest uncovered at room temperature while oven heats.
Prep the ramps: trim the hairy bottoms and remove the outer layer of skin. Separate the leaves from the bulbs; I cut them where the pink stem starts to blend into the leaf. Soak in water to rinse out dirt, and pat dry. Cut any fat bulbs in half lengthwise. Tear the leaves into large pieces.
Trim the asparagus into thirds. Rinse well and pat dry.
Once the skillet is ready, carefully transfer chicken, breast-side up, to the hot skillet. Press down on the legs so they rest flat on the bottom of the pan. Drizzle the bird with a few heavy glugs of olive oil (probably about 3 tablespoons). Add about half the lemon quarters (or as much as you can fit). Roast for 25-30 minutes, until the skin turns golden brown. If the chicken is not cooked through after that time, cook for a few more minutes until it comes to temp (165 degrees) and it’s no longer pink. Remove to a cutting board to rest.
Toss ramp bulbs (not leaves), garlic, asparagus, and capers into the skillet. Stir to coat them with pan juices. Pop back in for 5 more minutes. Remove the (likely) burnt lemons (squeeze them as you remove!), add ramp leaves, and stir again. You can add a few more lemon wedges if you want. Turn off the oven, add pan back in, then roast for 3 more minutes.
Serve chicken with pan juices, vegetables, toasted bread, and remaining lemon wedges.