Don't sleep on Providence
The city's booming food scene is not to be overlooked.
About 1 hour from Boston and 3 hours from New York City, Providence, Rhode Island is a food lover’s dream that often falls under the radar. Providence is one of the oldest cities in the U.S., so there’s a constant dynamic of old and new. Established, old-school eateries that have been around for decades. New school cocktail bars, pushing the boundaries of what a cocktail can be. Chefs influenced by deep local culture and newer immigrants, using the bounty of the nearby Narragansett Bay in interesting ways. Providence’s food scene punches well above its weight.
In late November, GoProvidence invited me to town for a culinary-focused weekend to get a better sense of what the city has to offer. The team made an itinerary with a few Rhode Island institutions and some newer spots, and I since I had been before, I added a few of my favorites and a handful of recommendations from locals. Needless to say, it was a very packed 48 hours of eating.
When we arrived, we checked in and headed to Track 15, the food hall across the street from our hotel. Located in the old Union Station, it’s a new project from a group of developers that have been at the forefront of revitalizing downtown. “Food brings people together,” Christopher Marsella tells me, “We weren’t interested in doing a traditional restaurant, but we have a long-term interest in the area.”
Marsella is the president of the organization that spearheaded the project and he and his team knew the food had to be local. “We wanted to showcase Rhode Island.” They ate their way through the state over 18 months, talking to people and putting together a list of their favorite spots. “We knew certain types of food we wanted because we had already designed the kitchen. But we had to think about what made sense.”
After I returned from the trip, I chatted with Robert Andreozzi, a local chef that runs two of the buzziest newcomers to Providence: Pizza Marvin and Club Frills. He’s worked in kitchens all over the US, but eventually made his way back to Rhode Island. “I think my goal here is that people are more in tune with and proud of our food systems,” he told me, “I think people celebrating local farms is great.”
When asked if the small city can support the growing restaurant scene, he’s confident it can. “I have a vision where there’s lots of competition and I am not going to the same few restaurants every time I go out. I think people are realizing that a rising tide lifts all boats.”
It’s easy to overlook Providence, but their rapidly growing food scene is proving that Providence can play in the big leagues.
Providence is great for a long weekend away. Here’ are a few spots I’d hit:
I love a good cocktail, but I don’t necessarily seek out cocktail bars. They often come across as overly fussy and complicated, which takes the fun out of drinking. Club Fills is not that. They have innovative cocktails that push the boundaries of technique and ingredients. Get the jello shots if they’re available.
Pizza Marvin is from the same team as Club Frills and they serve up a menu that’s inspired as much by regional cuisine as it is by the pizza joints of our youth. The pizza and non-pizza items alike are fantastic, the vibes are high, and the drinks are strong.
Uyghur cuisines blends Central Asian, Turkish, and Chinese flavors, and is centered around lamb, hand-pulled noodles, and cumin-grilled spiced meats. Jahunger was my first introduction to the cuisine and I have not stopped thinking about our meal. The hand-pulled noodles are a must order.
Part raw bar, part cocktail bar, Gift Horse is a seasonally-minded restaurant that’s great for a well-crafted cocktail and New England seafood.
For all the spots we visited, plus recommendations from locals, you can check out my Google map here.